From steaks to sushi, Shane Middleton departs 6HEAD for niche role at cool city Japanese diner Papi Katsu

From an average of 1500 covers a week to only 42, Shane Middleton is downsizing. After getting hugely popular high-end steakhouse 6HEAD sizzling at Elizabeth Quay last year, the 34-year-old Perth chef will lead the omakase offering at another hugely popular venue, Japanese “fun-diner” Papi Katsu. Middleton is in the throes of creating a “non-traditional” omakase, or chef’s choice, leaning heavily on local seafood at the neon-lit subterranean izakaya on St Georges Terrace in the city. He and sushi chef Jason Tan will effectively run a restaurant within a restaurant, feeding seven people per service — one seating on Wednesdays and Thursdays, and two on Fridays and Saturdays. While Middleton says he learnt a lot at 6HEAD, a big, bustling steak joint “just didn’t fit for me”. Given his experience at fine-diners Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London and Melbourne — as well as Fleur at The Royal, which melded French cuisine and Japanese flavours during his tenure — he was keen to return to his strong suit. At Fleur, Middleton worked closely with chef Chase Weber, one of the masterminds in the Sesh Mafia group behind Papi Katsu as well as Subiaco mod-Asian diner Shui and inner-city bar, deli and wine store Margot’s. Those three venues are all infused with a fun, creative and experimental spirit. “We take it seriously, but not too serious,” says Middleton, who joins a like-minded burgeoning hospitality team also boasting award-winning Perth chef Leigh Power, cocktail king Eoin Kenny and vibes guru Benny Tua. Sesh Mafia plans to launch more venues in 2024, including cerveza bar Lupe’s and charcoal chicken joint Larry’s. Culinary director Chase Weber revealed that Sesh Mafia plans to partner with Middleton on a restaurant next year. “We’re always looking for the best talent we can find for our rapidly expanding business,” he said, describing Middleton as an “exceptional” fine-dining chef. In the meantime, however, one of Perth’s best will be busy in Papi Katsu creating Japanese dishes stimulating for both diners and chef. “I want to have fun,” Middleton says, “and create fun food.”