Home

Authentic Experiences Guide 2024

Headshot of Stephen Scourfield
Stephen ScourfieldThe West Australian
Stephen Scourfield with Willis Muirimi in Hartbeespoort Chameleon Markets, South Africa.
Camera IconStephen Scourfield with Willis Muirimi in Hartbeespoort Chameleon Markets, South Africa. Credit: Stephen Scourfield/The West Australian

Many travellers today want more from their journeys — experiences that feel authentic, unusual insights, more meaningful moments, and connections that are tangible and human.

At first all of that threw up quite a conundrum for the travel industry. I saw touring and cruise companies working to create authentic experiences — which, in itself, seems verging on contradictory.

After all, “authentic” means genuine, original, true and real.

But things have matured and settled — in large part as operators, organisations and individuals have been drawn into the orbit of the travel industry, just as this satellite of demand has itself been drawn into the heart of tourism.

What do I mean?

Well, in these pages we have examples from Jeju Island, off the mainland of South Korea. There are the Haenyeo women divers now engaged in tourism, young Kang Bo Ram teaching visitors how to dye fabric with natural dyes and Dongbaek village drawing on its long history of producing camellia oil to develop a community-based tourism project that has just been recognised internationally.

As Jeju Island guide and new friend, Oh Jeoung Sil, announces: “The 21st century is the Era of Culture.”

These are just some examples, experienced by me this week on an island less than six hours flight east of Singapore with Scoot.

And I think I could give equal examples in any week in many countries now.

Across the world, there’s been a growing interest in artisan produce and products, which feeds in to our desire for authentic experiences. We now have an extended menu — the flavours and life of the local terroir.

Drive-by simply isn’t good enough for many contemporary travellers.

Find your spot and stay longer. Cafe de la Rotonde, Paris is A favourite for Steve McKenna.
Camera IconFind your spot and stay longer. Cafe de la Rotonde, Paris is A favourite for Steve McKenna. Credit: Steve McKenna/The West Australian

authenticity — TWO TRAVEL TRICKS

+ Make a base and stay there

While travelling is part of travel, it’s not necessarily the point of travel.

We generally travel to get somewhere, so another trick is to just decide on a base and stay there. Rather than two nights, really commit and book 10. In Paris, you might just settle for the same cafe for coffee in the morning, just like locals do. You might spend every other day wandering the city’s sights, and then take day trips out of the city for local travel on the other days.

Ask locals what they do in the evenings. You might find locals start to share more, the longer you stay.

+ Go two streets back

In the famous squares of the big cities of Europe, you may find a crush of visitors, and might “bleed Euros” for an ice-cream. I just walk two streets back. Within 100m, I find myself in a quiet back street or alleyway, sitting in a parallel street, and feeling like I’m in a parallel, local universe. (Extend the idea with Bordeaux or Lyon rather than Paris.)

authenticity —WHAT TO SAY

One trick is to ask the “right questions”, to get a glimpse into local everyday lives.

Here are some thoughts on very specific questions.…

+ Please tell me three things I should know about this place.

+ What things do you like to do in your own time? (Hobbies, places to walk, places to sit.)

+ What do you like to do at the weekend? And what would be your perfect Sunday morning?

+ Where do you take visitors?

+ What’s your favourite place to eat?

+ What sport do people here love most? And how do they watch it?

Lunch in tagines at Tawesna Association at Ait Benhaddou in Morocco. The women’s association is supported by Intrepid.
Camera IconLunch in tagines at Tawesna Association at Ait Benhaddou in Morocco. The women’s association is supported by Intrepid. Credit: Stephen Scourfield/The West Australian

authenticity — IN SCRIPTED MOMENTS

Even though you are with, say, a tour or cruise company, or have joined a local day tour, there can be authenticity, of course. The people you visit, or who are cooking or dancing for you, are locals. Yes, they will be making a living, but they are probably also embracing their culture, and embracing your interest. Don’t underestimate that.

In small-group tours I’ve seen it first-hand, for example, with Intrepid. Guests are travelling with locals, visiting truly authentic places, and genuinely contributing to the local life and economy.

On tours with bigger groups, I still see it. Considering, for example, that Albatross Tours specialises in Europe (and the hotspots will be busy), I see the lengths they go to in developing itineraries on less-travelled routes, with truly local visits.

I see it with, for example, Collette tours. Immediately I am taken to many of the experiences our writer in Europe, Steve McKenna, has written about in Ireland, for example. Travellers simply couldn’t have had them if travelling alone.

And I see it in river and small-ship ocean cruising with companies like Viking, which has on-ground teams digging out and developing visits and experiences all over the world.

I know from personal, insider conversations that these experiences often start with an approach to someone who may not have considered meeting or working with tour groups. That initial conversation may be followed with a long period of advice and development.

ON THE WATER

In the last three years, I have seen a significant change in the itineraries for small and expedition-style cruise ships.

For a start, they have been veering off the wake of the ship in front, to find new coastlines, and smaller ports and harbours, and then arranging more bespoke visits and having time on-shore.

I think first of the significant number of itineraries that explore the Scottish islands, for example.

Joel Katz, managing director in Australasia for Cruise Lines International Association, confirms: “The number of people taking expedition cruises has risen by more than 70 per cent since 2019.

“Travellers are hungry for unspoilt locations and cultural authenticity, and many are looking to expedition cruises as a way to discover places that might have once seemed out of reach.”

On an expedition cruise in Papua New Guinea, an island welcome at Lamassa, New Ireland.
Camera IconOn an expedition cruise in Papua New Guinea, an island welcome at Lamassa, New Ireland. Credit: Stephen Scourfield/WA News

INDIGENOUS CONNECTION

The World Travel and Tourism Council has just predicted that, globally, Indigenous tourism will inject $US67 billion ($100b) into the global economy by 2034.

That is more good news for those seeking authentic experiences — as, of course, the WTTC is referring to all Indigenous people around the globe.

WTTC president and CEO Julia Simpson says: “Indigenous tourism is not only about showcasing rich cultural traditions; it’s about empowering communities, creating sustainable jobs, and ensuring that Indigenous people are in control of their own stories and economic futures.”

A recent WTTC report, Supporting Global Indigenous Tourism, says Indigenous tourism plays a crucial role in preserving cultural heritage, languages and traditional practices.

“Indigenous tourism is rapidly emerging as a key economic driver,” it says.

“It creates jobs and economic value in remote areas. It promotes and protects Indigenous people’s cultures, languages and lands. And gives visitors a unique opportunity to experience and learn about Indigenous history and tradition.

“This economic boom is fuelled by increasing demand for authentic cultural experiences.”

It expects the global Indigenous tourism market to grow by just over 4 per cent a year over the next decade.

“This sector is empowering communities to take control of their economic futures,” the report says.

+ In Canada, the Indigenous tourism sector supports almost 2000 businesses, and more than 39,000 jobs.

+ Tourism has become the main economic driver in Panama’s Guna Yala region. The Guna people and their culture have created a self-sufficient economy.

+ There are now certification marks like “Sami Duodji” to protect the traditions of the Sami people of Northern Europe.

Drawn by the sound of music to a taverna with local musicians in the basement of an old building off the old market square in Monastiraki area of Athens.
Camera IconDrawn by the sound of music to a taverna with local musicians in the basement of an old building off the old market square in Monastiraki area of Athens. Credit: Stephen Scourfield/WA News

authenticity — UNSCRIPTED MOMENTS

You can’t script some authentic experiences. You just have to be there.

+ Don’t just think “travel and tourism” experiences — be aware of the local lifestyle and trends. For South Koreans, skincare is cultural, so I went to a branch of Olive Young, which is where the young locals shop, giving myself the excuse of finding green tea face masks to gift, but really just wanting to see where and how locals shop.

+ In a bakery in Lyon, I pluck up courage and walk in with confidence. “Bonjour!” I greet the people behind the counter (and not timidly). “Ca va?” Hello and how are you? They all respond “Ca va”, and then launch into fast conversation that I can’t quite catch. I tell them, in a pre-prepared statement, that my fluent French might just end there, and they laugh and try their English, and I try my “slower French” and we connect.

+ In busy Athens one evening, I am drawn by the sound of music, down worn stone stairs into a local taverna, with just one meal each day on the menu. Local musicians in this basement of an ancient building off the old market square in the Monastiraki area of Athens keep traditional songs and instruments alive. (Follow your ears as much as your eyes.)

+ Use your interests. If you are a kayaker or embroiderer, or have an interest in musical instruments or fashion, go out of your way to see the local scene and maybe meet like-minded people who are not necessarily “in tourism”.

+ In Zimbabwe, I ask my new friend Presha Ncube about the effect of regimes, repression and inflation. He simply says: It is our motto to see the best in things. To be happy.”

Willis Muirimi with his market stall.
Camera IconWillis Muirimi with his market stall. Credit: Stephen Scourfield/The West Australian

authentic moments

JUST A MEETING

IN A MARKET

On assignment in South Africa, it is just a meeting in a market. Willis Muirimi looks like just another young stallholder at the Chameleon Markets in Hartbeespoort, north of Johannesburg…

Striped beanie, open smile, glistening dark skin, politeness...

Tablecloths, beaded sculptures, stone carvings.

Willis is an artist and he’s keen to tell me the stories behind his pieces.

“Where are you from?” he asks. I tell him.

“And you?” I say, expecting him to reply “from here”. But he holds a slim hand to his heart.

“Zimbabwe,” Willis says. “That is my country.”

Willis is part of the tidal ebb and flow of people across and up and down Africa. Of people displaced, seeking and seeping through porous borders. Part of a global movement looking for better, fairer lives.

Willis has educated himself and will continue to do so. Education is the answer; Willis knows that.

He is full of ideas and discussion. “You are young, you have a voice,” I say.

“You are young, too,” he says. I tell him how old I am.

“Wow,” Willis corrects himself. “That OLD? Man, you are gone.” He roars with laughter and throws his arms around me in commiseration.

Trader Willis Muirimi at the Chameleon Markets.
Camera IconTrader Willis Muirimi at the Chameleon Markets. Credit: Stephen Scourfield/The West Australian

By this stage, the items on his stall are forgotten.

“How many children?” he asks me. It is often the second question in Africa, where family is fundamental.

“One son,” I say.

“Just one?” Willis replies. Sympathy and outrage. Whoever heard of anyone having just one son?

“And what do you do?” asks Willis.

“I am a writer.”

“I want to be a writer,” he bursts, as if it is some strange twist of divine fate — as if we are brothers, meeting in this market — the only two writers on the planet, brought together by some destiny.

We talk about it a little. He is an artist but he has ideas for films, for books.

“Yes, I want to be a writer.” And we talk about words and the world.

I want to buy some of Willis’s pieces to take home with me. A beaded V — my wife’s initial. A key ring for the new car we have bought my son.

I finger a $US50 note in my pocket that I’ve decided to swap for these trinkets.

And then the South African driver who is taking me back to Johannesburg airport returns. “You really want to buy these things?” He prods them, dismissively.

“How much you asking for these?” He shirtfronts Willis.

Willis gives him a figure.

The driver turns on me. “You really want these?”

I am supposed to say “not really” and shrug dismissively in this little play aimed at pushing the price down.

“Yes, I do,” I say.

I can see the driver’s disgust. Stupid visitor.

He decides to assert himself; take over. He cuts the figure right down, taking a step forward.

“Sure, man,” says Willis. That sum will be fine.

We are both intimidated now and I hand over a $US5 note.

The driver walks away, inflated; he has saved the silly white man.

I slip Willis the US$50 note. “Get books, paper and pens,” I whisper. “And don’t let the driver see.”

He laughs.

I ask Willis to write down his address in my notebook. “I will send you one of my books,” I say.

“Yes. Yes,” he says. “What is it called?”

“Connected.”

“Yes,” Willis says.

“Like us. We are connected.” And we shake hands in three parts, the African way.

It is as if Willis has crossed over the border from all he is, and I have too, and we have met in some happy no man’s land in the middle.

That no man’s land of just being human.

Get the latest news from thewest.com.au in your inbox.

Sign up for our emails