The birthplace of Portugal

The Portuguese city of Guimaraes may not be as well-known as Lisbon and Porto, but one could argue that it should be as it’s often referred to as the birthplace of Portugal.

Portugal’s first king, Afonso I (aka Afonso Henriques before he became king), was born in Guimaraes, and he played a pivotal role in the country’s history. It’s a long and complicated story but suffice to say, that after defeating his mother’s forces at the Battle of Sao Mamede, he established himself as the sole ruler of Portugal.

I’m visiting Guimaraes as part of an excursion during APT’s Douro Delights cruise on the Douro River. The excursion had me intrigued as soon as I spotted it on the itinerary because of the historical connection to the establishment of the Portuguese nation.

After a bus ride from our river-ship at Entre-os-Rios on the Douro River, we pull up right alongside the formidable-looking Guimaraes Castle. It was built under the orders of Countess Mumadona Dias in the 10th century to defend the Santa Maria Monastery she founded from attacks by Moors and Norsemen.

It’s an amazing place and, seeing and walking around the castle, it’s not hard to imagine how it played a crucial role in the formation of Portugal as an independent nation.

Next to the castle we visit the modest Church of Saint Miguel Do Castelo where Afonso Henriques was baptised before moving on to tour the magnificent-looking Palace of the Dukes of Braganza.

The palace was built by Afonso, the then 8th Count of Barcelos but future 1st Duke of Braganza, between 1420 and 1422. It was inspired by French manor houses of the period. It has been immaculately restored to its original glory and it’s a fascinating place to visit.

I’m standing in its impressive rectangular courtyard gazing up. The symmetrical design is stunning. I’m particularly impressed with the arches and the covered balcony that runs all around the inside of the building. I’m surprised by the large number of tall chimneys; I didn’t notice them from the outside but our guide Maria Coimbra tells us the palace was quite advanced for its time. All the main rooms have fireplaces and it was the first in palace in Portugal to have inside toilets and an advanced water catchment system.

The stately rooms inside are filled with immaculate collections of artefacts ranging from furniture, ceramics and weaponry to massive tapestries that depict scenes of Portugal’s expansion as a colonial power. One of the most impressive rooms is The Hall of the Dukes which has huge frescos depicting the major life events of the Braganza family.

After the tour of the castle and the palace we have some free time to explore the labyrinth of narrow cobblestoned streets and plazas around the city’s historic centre. It’s a charming place to wander around. We lose track of time while admiring the centuries-old buildings and the many quaint shops that line the narrow streets and lanes.

Guimaraes is not just about history. It is, according to guide Maria, also a hub of cultural activity with numerous festivals and events throughout the year that celebrate everything from medieval traditions to contemporary arts. The main event is the annual Gualterianas Festival which Maria says is a vibrant celebration with parades, concerts and traditional performances.

Guimaraes is well worth a visit if you are in the neighbourhood. It is located in the north-western part of Portugal about 55km from Porto and within easy reach by bus or car.

For more information about APT’s Douro Delights tour, visit aptouring.com.au

Disclaimer: Mogens Johansen was a guest of APT during their Douro Delights tour from Madrid to Porto. They have not seen or influenced this story prior to publication.